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September 10, 2009

第346話 富士山

 太宰治に依れば、「この俗物め!」と蔑みながらもついつい目が行ってしまう富士。深田久弥からも「偉大なる俗物」と称される富士。昔の風呂屋のペンキ絵には必ず描かれていた富士。そんな富士山を正直、今まで馬鹿にしていた。何しろ頂上までブルドーザの道があるし、登るにしても、凡そ登山らしくない山。そんな富士も、一度は登らねばならぬ、と思いながらも後回しにしていた。3歳から90歳まで登れる山だから、まだ後でいいと。

 そんな富士山だが、ひょんな思いつきで日曜日に登ってきた。7月8月の山小屋が営業している間は猛烈な混雑が予想されるのでパス。10月以降の富士は完全に冬山になるから、行くとしたら9月しかない。しかも土曜はやはり混雑が予想されるから天気の好さそうな日曜ということになるが、ちょうどピッタシの条件になりそうだったので、土曜の午後から俄か作りの支度で飛んでいった。

 午後9時に到着するも、富士宮の5合目駐車場は既に多くの車でごった返していた。車中で仮眠し、明け方までには出発してゆく登山者達だが、ヘッドランプを頼りに夜中に登ってゆく人も少なくないようだ。

 午前5時10分出発。ここは高齢の登山者が多く、普段は鈍足の部類に入る自分でもスイスイ追い越して高度を稼ぐ。景色は相変わらず単調で、植物が乏しく、やはり富士は見る山だ。

 8合目あたりで目眩が始まった。以前マレーシアの4,100mの山に登った際も最後はクラクラきたが、今回はそれよりはかなり標高は低いので、高山病は全く用心していなかった。寝不足が祟ったのかもしれない。

 ペースを落とし、のろのろ歩く。9時50分、頂上に到着したが、何とも無粋な山頂だ。日本最高所の標柱は、測候所の建物の脇に追いやられている。その狭い所に大勢の人でごった返している。3000mを優に超える山で、ここくらい長居をする気にさせない山頂も珍しい。Himg0040

 下りは更にストレスが溜まった。年寄りの集団が大挙して登ってくるので、登山道が塞がって待たされるのだ。山を楽しむことに異論は挟まないが、集団で歩いているときは、すれ違う時には道を空けるとかのマナーは守ってもらいたいものだ。午後1時30分駐車場に到着。義務を果たした、というくらいのささやかな満足感はあったかな。

 太宰治が今この山を登ったら、このニッポン一の山は更に木っ端微塵にけなされていたに違いない。

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