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April 13, 2012

第456話 キリングフィールド

 さして見どころのないプノンペン。キリングフィールドとツールスレンを3時間ほどでひと回りしようとトゥクトゥクのオジサンと交渉。20ドルを提示されたが、何とか半額の10ドルで折り合った。ホテルのお姉さんは多分15ドル位と言っていたので、マズマズの金額。

 朝8時過ぎに出たが、既に激しい渋滞でタップリとディーゼルの排ガスを吸わされる。これは喘息持ちの身にはかなりキツイ。1時間弱でキリングフィールドに着いた。時間が早いので来訪者は疎らだ。

 キリングは killing だから、ここはポルポト時代の処刑のフィールドだ。頭蓋骨が山のように積まれた写真を見た記憶のある人は少なくないはずだ。しかし、あれからもう20年以上経つ。慰霊の祈念碑があって亡くなった人達はすでに丁重に弔われているのだろう、と思ってやってきたのだが、全く違う光景だった。

 頭蓋骨は記念塔のなかにまだ山のように積まれていたのである。そのことを知っていて見に来た人はともかく、この光景を見れば誰だって言葉を失う。もの凄い数の頭蓋骨。しかも、凄惨な拷問の末の頭蓋骨。それが生々しく目の前にある。ポルポト…。毛沢東思想に毒された独裁者。これはひどい。Photo

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